A Brush with Greatness

His garage was a home gourmet’s dream. He had three big barrels of ageing wine. He let me have a sample. A glass-lined refrigerator ran along one wall of the garage and in it were homemade hams and sausages, curing. I came to learn later that this wasn’t any regular guy. This Paul, who invited a complete stranger into his food and wine laboratory, was chef Paul Bertolli, Alice Waters’ chef at the world-renown Chez Panisse and co-owner and chef at Oliveto.

Freeing the Rootstock

When we decided to plant an additional space with Pinot Noir grapes, we opted to plant bare rootstock and then, after a year, graft on the grape clone in the field. The rootstock is buried under a mound of dirt to keep it moist and protected from the elements. Once the rootstock begins to bud and grow leaves, it is necessary to uncover the plant from the mound to prevent mildew. This job is normally contracted through our vineyard manager to be done by vineyard workers. But Clay and I decided that this was a job that not only we could do, but should do.